Get your BBQ heated and ready to cook.

Rub the aubergines all over with a little olive oil. Place onto the BBQ and cook for 10-15 minutes, turning occasionally, until the skin is a deep, rich black all over (shut the lid of the BBQ between turning, to help them along). If you don’t want to use the BBQ, you can use tongs to burn the aubergines over the flame of a gas stove instead. Allow to cool slightly.

Once the aubergines are cool enough to touch, chop them in half lengthways and use a fork to scrape the flesh from the skin. Discard the blackened skin, then mash the aubergine flesh with the fork into a rough paste.

When your pasta is close to al dente, melt the butter in a large pan over a medium heat. Once hot, add the crushed black pepper and toast for a minute or so, until it releases its fragrance. Add the mashed aubergine and a ladleful of pasta water to emulsify the mixture and stir well to combine. Use tongs to lift the bucatini from its water and into the pan, then scatter over the parmesan, allow to sit for 30 seconds, and stir well. If the sauce is too thick to cover all the pasta, add a little more pasta water and stir again. We are looking for something nice and glossy. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding a pinch of salt, if needed.